Well folks, I'm home. And here is what happened on the last few days of our journey. Get ready...I'm sure this will be pretty long. You might want to read it in sections.
------------------------
Cinque Terre - Day one
------------------------
We woke up bright and early on Friday morning and got ready to leave for Rome. We stopped downstairs and had breakfast before leaving out. We slightly miscalculated our time, and showed up to the train station with only 15 minutes to spare. We hadn't gotten reservations, and were pretty sure they were compulsory. We rushed to the ticket counter only to find a long line of people. We waited...and waited...and finally got to the ticket counter at 7:35...and the train left at 7:36. I quickly asked the lady if we needed reservations to which she said no. We took off running for the platform, Wendy in the lead, and made it to the engine of the train as the conductors were getting on. They are always the last to get on the train. Wendy hesitated, and one of them said, "hurry, jump on!" She did, and I followed. As I started to step on, the train began moving. I heaved and with the help of the conductors, made it safely onto the car. One of them looked at us and with his Italian accent said, "last second." Again, we just like to live on the edge.
I know I've said this before, but Europeans are not real big on the whole bathing aspect. In fact, I would say they consider it to be optional...per week...As we made our way into the first car, we were hit with the worst smell imaginable. It was a mixture of body odor, bad breath, cigarettes, and mildew. I looked at Wendy and said, "Let's hurry through this car, it smells horrible!!!" We walked as quickly as possible but soon caught up to a woman with 3 children who was holding up our progress. I could see the door to the next car, but she and her entourage stood in the way. Thoughts of pushing them out of the way and making a run for it did cross my mind. Nevertheless, I held my breath for what seemed like an hour, I slowly followed behind. When we finally passed through both doors into the next car, I let out a sigh of relief and sucked in a deep breath...only to be paralyzed with disgust that the same smell also occupied this car. Behind me, Wendy began to gag. It was at that moment, that I realized the woman and her 3 rug rats were the source of the stench. We stopped dead in our tracks and allowed a good 3 car buffer before moving forward. Every once in awhile we would start to catch up to her again, and we would pause until we could no longer see her through the doors. You think I'm kidding...but I'm not. It was that bad.
The train ride to Cinque 5 was painless and quite beautiful. We spent most of the ride looking at the beautiful Mediterranean sea through the window. We arrived at Le Spazia around noon. The next train to Manarola, the town we were staying in, was not for another hour. Instead of waiting, we decided to hop on a train to Vernazza which is a neighboring town. The view there was breathtaking. We still had to wait about 45 minutes for the train, but we just soaked up the view while we waited.
We arrived in Manarola around 1:15pm. The directions to the hostel were pretty vague: "from the train station, go right up the hill. We are next to the church." So right we went, up the hill...which was seriously the steepest grade I've ever walked. The street was probably the equivalent of 4 city blocks in length, but it took us a good 15 minutes to walk it. By this stage in the trip, our bags were substantually heavier. I would estimate that mine was closer to 35 lbs. One we made it to the church (there is only one church), we went up two flights of stairs to reach the Ostello Hostel. It is seriously at the top of the town and had the most amazing view! At the door, we were greeted by the most unfriendly person we have met along our trip. He informed us that they were closed for cleaning. No big deal, we just wanted to drop off our bags. He didn't want us to drop it off without checking in, but did not want to check us in. I told him I would be more than happy to leave my bag on a street corner but would not be carrying it back up the hill. He was quite disgruntled, but insisted on checking us in. I wasn't kidding when I said I would leave them on the street corner, but he would not go for that. The check in was quite a harmless process and only took him 2 minutes. His complaints took longer than that.
Most hostels workers are very friendly and helpful. They give you maps and suggest places to visit, eat, and shop. Not so much here. Upon check in, we were handed a half sheet of paper that was full of hostel rules, most of which were trivial. One such rule was "the ceiling fan in your room can only be turned on if all of the occupants of that room agree to turn it on." I understand that all hostels have rules, but seriously? Rules about fans? We were also given a "shower token." This magical token allowed you 5 minutes in the shower. Need more time? Sure thing. Simply pay the kind souls at the counter .50 euro and you will receive another 5 minutes. Of course, you would have to wait for your first 5 minutes to elapse, then walk your naked soapy body out of the shower to insert the next token, and so on. You were also offered an organic breakfast (for a fee, of course), and for 4 euro, you would receive a laundry token. I felt like I was at a strict chucky cheese!
After leaving our bags and being forced to check in by the precious clerk, we felt a little uneasy about the town. We got the feeling that the natives didn't really want tourists to be there. We walked around the quaint little town trying to blend as much as possible. Of course our cameras around our necks made us a little obvious.
I really don't know how to describe Manarola. The town was absolutely amazing. It was completely surrounded by mountainside on 3 sides and dropped to the sea on the 4th. The houses began at the ledge and stacked up partially into the mountains. Similar to Venice, it had winding passageways between the buildings. Every once in awhile, the building would break leaving the passageway overlooking the side of the mountain and gave the most breathtaking views of the city and ocean. Above the houses on the mountainside were rows of crops. Every few feet up the mountain, a retaining wall was built which created about a 5 foot flat surface. This stair step went all the way up to the top. Most of the crops were grapes, but there were also lemons, limes, apples, etc. Below the town in the sea, several boats were tied to the rocks. A huge crane was used to hoist the boats in and out of the water every morning and evening. Because there was no actual "beach," a flat surface had been carved out of the rock on the North side of the town near the water, as well as steps that lead to that surface. From there, you could jump into the ocean. Many of the brave natives would climb to the top of the rock formations and take the high jump.
After exploring the very small town, we decided to go to the South side of town and climb across the rocks out to the ocean. These were giant quartz rocks that served as a barrier between the waves and the dock. Several of them had flat surfaces that were large enough for two people to lay on. Because we had dropped off our packs at the hostel (and didn't chance going back before the lock out period ended), we didn't have our bathing suits. We just laid on those rocks and took naps for close to an hour. It was heavenly.
We made the treacherous walk back up to the hostel just before 5 pm. We sat under the clock tower and observed the people of Manarola. What I loved about this town was it's lack of show. I felt like so many of the places we visited were geared towards tourists. You never saw the true culture of the area, only the culture they displayed for the visitors. Manarola was different. These people were living their lives as farmers and fishermen and continued on with their daily activities without paying much attention to the few tourists. As we sat under the clock tower, several older men gradually gathered on the benches and visited while the women sat across the square and did the same. Parents were out walking with their children, carrying baskets of fruit. It was a true immersion into their culture.
When we finally made our way back to the hostel, we were able to have a look around. Our room was on the 3rd floor (really 4th) and had 3 bunk beds. We had a great view of the town and clock tower through our window! We purchased a "laundry token" and did some much needed laundry. The hostel had a veranda on the roof where we sat and waited for the laundry to wash. Instead of paying the additional 2 euro to dry, we hung our clothes on the line on the roof. As we sat and watched the sunset, we debated on where to eat. Because the previous two outings were disappointing, we wanted to be sure to go to a good restaurant, of which the town only had 4. I decided to ask the helpful front desk people...bad idea. We waited in line for 15 minutes only to be told "I give no recommendations. I must now check in more people." Fabulous. We retreated back to the roof, met a few other hostelers, and decided to go as a group to seek out good food. We walked around, and finally settled on one that was in the center of town. I was immediately drawn to the baked lasagna with meat sauce (mainly because of the word meat). Everyone else decided on the same, and we placed our order. It arrived shortly after, and we all loved it! It was truely the best lasagna I have ever tasted. I ate as slow as I possibly could...I never wanted it to end! Do keep in mind, on top of the food, we each paid 2.5o euro just to sit at the restaurant and another 4 euro for water. We were going to make this last!
Our next stop was at the gilato stand. We struck gold. I believe we found the best gilato in all of Europe.
------------------------
Cinque Terre - Day two
------------------------
My day began with the 7 o'clock ringing of the very loud clock in the tower. I decided to get up and get coffee downstairs and sit on the veranda. I ordered my coffee and started towards the stairs but was stopped by one of the lovely lads and told that I could not take the coffee out of the breakfast room. Luckily, there is a small balcony off the breakfast room that I was able to take advantage of. Did I mention I loved that hostel? After my coffee, I went to the veranda and watched all the peoples of Manarola work in their fields. Most were picking grapes and placing them in large bins. The bins were then carried all the way down the mountainside stairs one at a time on the shoulders of the workers. It was very neat to watch!
We officially started the day at 8 am with our 5 minute showers. I washed my hair in the sink first, knowing that I usually take at least a 20 minute shower. No way was I giving that crazy hostel any more money to do that! We packed up our things and "checked out," again leaving our baggage in storage. We decided to take the hike from Manarola to it's Northern neighboring town, Corniglia. Because the trails are a part of a national park, you have to pay to walk them. Crazy, I know! The walk took around 30 minutes and was not so impressive. We didn't have time to hike between all 5 towns so we decided to catch a train on to Monterosso, the Northern most town in Cinque Terre.
We all know trains are fast, some reaching 200 mph. But usually they slow down as they pass through towns, except in Italy. A warning is announced on the PA system that a "train in transit will be passing on track two." This announcement really means, "brace yourself and grab any belonging that are not tied down or attached to your person because a train is about to fly through." A full length train would take about 10-20 seconds to pass. They moved so quickly that you could not count the cars.
As we waited for a train at one such station, we saw a little tiff between a few Americans and an Italian conductor. The downfall of most American's is assuming that all peoples of the world speak English. That produces the worst behavior from the French and Italians. The problem was they had not validated their tickets after purchase so the conductor would not let them on the train. Of course, they didn't know this because the conductor was explaining this in Italian. It escalated into a yelling match where the conductor was yelling "50 euro to get on" (the cost of the penalty for not validating) and the Americans pleading for an explanation. The conductor grabbed their tickets and threw them into a flower pot, boarded the train, and it pulled away. When a native explained the problem, we all quickly ran to validate our tickets!
Monterosso is the tourist town of Cinque Terre complete with resorts and streets full of Cinque Terre gift items. It is also the only town with a beach! We grabbed some gilato, walked to the beach, and scouted out our spot on the pebbles (much like cat litter). We absolutely loved baking by the sea! I got in a few times to cool off, but the closer you got to the water, the rocks became bigger and more treacherous. Native children ran circles around me as I gingerly stepped on the rocks. It was so worth it, though. The water was cold, but just perfect to counter the hot day!
Did I mention the naked people everywhere? Oh yeah. Clothing are totally optional. Topless 80 year old women and 300 pound men in speedos are something no human should have to see. As Wendy watched one such speedo clad man, she said "there he is on the prowl, looking for innocent eyes to corrupt." So true, so true.
We yet again purchased gilato and took the train back to Manarola. Our overnight train left at 7:30 and we wanted to grab our bags and be able to eat that amazing lasagna again. One waiter told us that the restaurant would open at "six half" so we decided to have desert first...another gilato...and then wait on a bench for 6:30. As we waited, an entire family passed by. Grandpa was pushing the stroller with a little girl in it while grandma and the parents followed. The little girl smiled towards us and we both waved and smiled at her. The grandparents saw the gesture and tried to get her to wave. This began a very fun conversation where we met the family and discussed Italy, Italians, and Italian food.
At 6:30, we sat down in the outside serving area and we were informed by our waiter that it would be 7 before the kitchen opened. We told him we just loved the lasagna and wanted more before we had to catch a train at 7:30. He walked back in the restaurant and came back simply saying "prego" (Welcome). He took our order, and 15 minutes later we were served. They actually opened the kitchen early just for us! We splurged and ordered the desert recommended to us by the waiter. It was a type of cookie covered in warm vanilla cream with strawberries on top. As a very kind gesture, the waiter also brought us a bunch of grapes saying "Manarola grapes." We wanted grapes so badly while we were there, but neither of the two markets sell them. I guess everyone just grows their own. We left a generous tip (at least for us) and started to leave, but an old Austria injury reared it's ugly head. My right knee started to really hurt me in Austria and continued bothering me throughout the trip. It hurt continuously, but was bearable. More than anything, it was just annoying because I had to take all stairs one at a time for lack of flexibility. The night before, another hosteler had given me a temporary wrap to use which helped some. Well, as I got up from the table to head to the train station, it locked up and I could not straighten it. This was accompanied by an acute pain like I've never felt before. I could put no weight on it whatsoever, let alone carry a 35 lb. pack. The waiter was quite concerned and looked at the train schedule to see if we would have time to make it. We had 6 minutes. Wendy grabbed her pack and threw it on her back, then grabbed my pack and put it on her front. She took off towards the station with the nearly 70 lbs of bags and said "I'll be back for you!" I slowly followed hobbling/limping through the tunnel to the train station. Wendy met me half way, helped me to the station, and then others who saw the commotion came and helped us and our bags onto the train. Another close call. We are really good at those.
------------------------
Zürich - Days 1 & 2
------------------------
We had to make 3 train changes before we got on the overnight train at 12:30 pm. We were so very tired, but slept well. We arrived in Zürich around 8:30am, hopped on the tram, and found the hostel thanks to the directions of a nice elderly gentleman. The hostel was very modern and clean. We said that we were quite glad that it was the last hostel, otherwise we would have been spoiled and disappointed with all of the others! We changed in the downstairs bathroom, stored our larger packs, and headed out to peruse the town. We started by visiting a small cafe in Altstadt (Old town). We really splurged the last few days! We each had a wonderful chicken wrap (MEAT!!!) and got some advice from the waitress. She suggested we go atop a nearby mountain (by train, of course...my knee wouldn't have it any other way). From there, we could have a great view of the city. We did so, and it was quite lovely. We still had to walk about 10 minutes and then several flights of stairs to get to the lookout, but it was worth it. We came back to our hostel, napped, then walked around a little more.
The next morning, we were up by 6 AM, packed our things, ate breakfast (COLD MILK!!!), and headed by tram to the train station. There we were able to purchase true Swiss chocolate. The stuff is not cheap if you buy the good stuff. I spent around $75-$85 US on chocolate for gifts and myself. Oh, but it's so worth it! Never have you tasted better chocolate!
We were at the airport about 1 1/2 hours early but after check-in, security, and customs, we only had about 15 minutes to spare. While boarding the plane, we had a little visit with the captain. We were very excited when he had a southern drawl and said "ya'll." We took our seats, began to taxi, and then a 1 hour delay was announced. We were quite happy when we were able to take off. Eleven and a half hours, two meals, one movie, one entire book, 45 minute nap, and several severe knee cramps later, we landed in Dallas. We could not wait to find a Dr. Pepper. We decided a Chilis was our best bet and man were we right! I think I had 6 glasses while we were there...and a cup to go!
We arrived in OKC around 8:30, went through customs, and met our family. Keith AND my dad were there to great me as were Wendy's parents. Kyle is in driving training so Wendy won't see him until this weekend. : ( My group went directly to Texas roadhouse for quite a feast. We finally rolled in to Weatherford around 11:00 making my waking hours total right at 24 hours (minus the 45 minute nap on the plane).
------------------------
Home Sweet Home
------------------------
I went back to work the next day at 8 am. I did well the whole day until about 4 pm when my body told me it was really 11 pm. Today, I'm really dragging. I'm about to go to bed for the night at it is only 7:30pm. It's definitely going to take awhile to get back to OK time!
I hope everyone has enjoyed this blog. I have loved writing to it! It's a great way for us to keep track of everything we did. I'm sure this will not be my last post...Wendy and I have written down a raft of quotes that I will surely have to post. You may not find them quite as amusing as we did, but I'll give them to you anyway. I would also like to leave you with some things we learned along the way. I just finished uploading all my pictures, over 2,000. Surprisingly less than I thought I would take! I'll post some of them as well. For tonight, this is all.
Todd, this picture is for you!